Monday, August 13, 2007

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Accursio Capraro of Gazza Ladra di Modica. Sense and Sensibility

Se un gourmet volesse meritarsi tale appellativo, dopo aver ammirato il Barocco siciliano così come interpretato from the Duomo Restaurant, culinary laboratory Mastro Sultan in Ragusa, should, at a distance of about 20 km Modica, try another laboratory gastronomic restaurant La Gazza Ladra Chef Accursio Capraro. It is for this youngster (now certainty) Sicilian culinary art the burden of keeping high the banner of County of Modica, where at least five centuries, an entire community is projected to show their superiority over the most noble near Ragusa, capital of the province as soon as tolerated. To prove the Church of San Giorgio, a masterpiece of Sicilian Baroque, which began in 1730 and ended after more than a century (1842), costruita in aperta concorrenza con l'omonimo Duomo di Ragusa.
Oggi invece le due città, sul piano artistico si confrontano a suon di pietanze.. ..come dimostra questo pacchero con ragù di triglia, zucchina estiva e le sue punte ( in Sicilia: tenerumi ) che mi ricorda una bellissima coreografia che qualche anno fa presentò a Taormina Arte il grande francese Béjard per ambientare il classico scespiriano, Sogno di una notte di mezza estate . In particolare il pacchero ricorda Oberon , il re delle fate , in sembianze di albero al momento del suo risveglio nel bosco, con i rami che scivolano pensantemente lungo the stem and then regain the vitality needed to win back his beloved Titania ..
.. the room of La Gazza Ladra benificia the able intuition of the architect (I forgot to ask for the name) that the alternating black marble floor and chairs fennel with white linen tablecloths and the ceramic plates of Germany, won a breath rational to an environment where attention without effort is totally focused on food, a bit like being in an art gallery ..
And here, while serving the Gourmet Traveler (aka Claudio Sacco), the sommelier Shingo Nagai, 32-year-old Japanese Osaka, who arrived seven years ago in Italy to study Renaissance art in Florence, ".. I liked best to wander through the Tuscan pubs - reveals to us - to learn the secrets of the cuisine and enology of the Bel Paese, rather than observe the Campanile of Brunelleschi .. " Two years ago Accursio Capraro knew him at a seminar held in Japan of Italian cuisine, Shingo acted as his interpreter, revealing his love for Italy. Accursio has not had prayers, and so Shingo (since it was also married and brought his young Japanese wife in Italy) has joined the team of Gazza Ladra
un'entrée Meanwhile, who is also a business card of themes that characterize the gastronomic journey and Capraro proposed by Accursio called La Gazza Ladra Menu. A paninetto with freshly baked in a very fruity olive oil, garlic and chilli with a bread stick wrapped with cucumber and tomato and lettuce curd, or cheese just curdled sheep (the intermediate stage between milk and cheese), and a glass of tonic water with fresh bergamot. We find the area of \u200b\u200bRagusa, but also as Sicilian olive oil extra virgin Castelvetrano (Trapani) the Nucciddara Farm Council. An olive oil which is collected in advance of the tradition in order to contain the acid load, without sacrificing the whole rainbow of flavors. Accursio also enhances products, such as Calabrian bergamot, that only the stubbornness of a people hard, as described by Corrado Alvaro in Gente d'Aspromonte , could keep alive despite the weak market demand. A territory, the South brought its fruit and its traditions (the bread with oil is one of the great Mediterranean appetizers) with the competence of those studied. If in fact there was a degree to become cooks, would certainly Accursio obtained. Give it to them, professionals tristellati ( adjective deriving from having received three stars from the Michelin Guide the highest recognition of global food ) as Massimiliano Alajmo Accursio where he was trained for 18 months (half a degree ) and known throughout Europe as a chef Pietro Leemann restaurant Joia, Milan, temple vegetarian cuisine ( other half degree ) ..
the Milanese Claudio Sacco notes for guidance on line of excellent restaurants that prepare ..
sommelier Shingo (but they call him Calogero ) begins selection of wines that will accompany us with a wine .. not Sicilian .. which obviously has upset but only because it should be noted costume is now the most popular restaurants offer only Sicilian wines Sicilian promotional activity that sometimes mask deficiencies also notable wine .. Calogero but not one that is hidden, and we propose a pinot grigio in purity from dolomite, it is the Garmin company Longariva. It 's like a rose in his mouth ..
.. Accursio technique begins to be felt with a light, crisp pastry wheat on which sits sumptuously elegant and balanced tuna tartar. Starting point the inevitable oil and tomato, to remember the strength of an area that is confirmed by decision ..
.. watermelon sorbet urchins mare, sciroppo di rose e capelli d'angelo, appena essiccati e poi leggermente passati nell'olio bollente e quindi soffiati
Ignazio Giurdanella, 24 anni di Modica, perito elettronico ma da sette anni in sala, sposato con un figlio in arrivo, è il maitre della Gazza Ladra. Lo vediamo nella foto in piedi di profilo tra Accursio Capraro e Claudio Sacco. Ci presenta il pane grissini, paninetti, sfoglie... ogni giorno vengono aromatizzati con spezie ed aromi diversi..
ed ecco una mousse di carne su giardinetto di misticanza. La carne è cruda, assolutamente di manzo e naturale. Dentro una ricotta di pecora che al palato ricorda la consistenza di un patè, e poi erbette aromatiche e le verdure che in Sicily grow wild everywhere, petals of flowers (a concession aesthetics) and a little Maldon salt and poppy seeds. On the palate a fresh start, on the flesh, descending towards a softness - that of cottage cheese - the sweetness that you expect is still in embryo, just mentioned, only to be chased and caught by the explosion in the mouth of the huge salt crystals of Maldon, as small red brushstrokes of Monet's poppy field, on a pale background, color of misiticanza. Vegetables - such as a child-stealing my big cat stolen every day in the great garden of the house for the summer holidays .. I had discovered, in fact, that the boots kept in secret and then bargain with the fairies Forest ..
to bring back to us, the samurai Calogero, son of a white chardonnay grapes grown by the company and carricante Gulfi Gulfi in Chiaramonte, a few miles from Gazza Ladra. A return home a little too salty .. However, confirming the veracity of the grape. In fact, the impetuous south wind, as the Arab pirates in past centuries, ravaging the coasts of Africa Sicilian sea salt deposited on the vines that during his trip robs the waters of the Strait of Sicily
puffs with black cuttlefish and almond milk. The cuttlefish fillets are cooked in oil at 60 degrees, the technique - known to a minority of chefs "elected" - è quella dell' oliocottura. Non unge, non frigge e cuoce in 30 minuti. Alla tecnica di Accursio segue poi la mia riflessione con in bocca il bignè che reagisce alla penetrazione dei miei canini riversando copiose quantità di nero che inondano la mia lingua, il palato e le gengive con la stessa foga delle onde del mare quando sbattono contro gli scogli. Poi arrivano delle consistenze, pezzetini di seppia. Gli stessi adagiati soavamente su un candido letto di latte di mandorla. Il gioco dei colori, bianco e nero , simpatizza vistosamente con i colori della sala, ma la mandorla, con la sua ruvida dolcezza, corteggia la seppia con l'ardore di Romeo Capuleti, ma lei, a differenza di Giulietta, preferisce flirtare con the cream puffs, swimming among the black of cuttlefish, with a small tomato that gives him a reflex amaranth and a stolen flavor to the tradition of Southern cuisine paccheri bucolic Of this I have already spoken, I spend only a few more words to specify
that spaghetti squash are summer (long long), finely chopped and then boiled. Also added the chili powder, while the sauce of red mullet, stuffed the paccheri, also contained tomato confit, capers and even zucchini
will only add to this dish, aesthetic design reminds me of a dish I saw on the site of Claudio Sacco, Travelling Gourmet. It was a sweet young pastry prepared by Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, Loretta Fanella, entitled the lawn.
Unfortunately this picture does not do justice (Claudio Sacco has a 3,500-euro car, I 150 ..) to those of lasagne pasta with shrimp and chickpeas. We find a mousse between layers of extra virgin olive oil emulsified with carob flour and the addition of summer squash strands and shrimp. The sauce is made to mirror the contents of the heads of shrimp with tomatoes, centrifuged, and the green pigments are pumpkin flowers pollinated and therefore grow. These are a bit problematic to find because the zucchini generate both male and female flowers (which are those used in restaurants) and do not always lend themselves bees or bumblebees to pollinate .. We need to think about the farmers by hand, or in greenhouses, get onto bees that serve as stallions .. amarostico the head of the shrimp enhances the sweetness of the vegetables while the pasta lasagna is light enough not to interrupt the flow of oil flavors well contextualized by a very fruity and slightly acid to use Accursio hands down in many of his creations ..
Furgentini This organic oil, oil produced by George Avola, from quality olives round iblea and Moorish hand picked from the trees planted in the grounds of Frigentini, a few miles from Gazza Ladra, and molinate cold Accursio The young, 31 years on August 12, does not mind even a few flat trend .. as this herb risotto, chicken and ficatum tuma sheep. Laughter is the best: Carnaroli, but the chicken is really interesting .. ficatum because in the last month of life have been fattened with figs, which the muscles of the animal loaded with sugar, bleached and firming up, it seems that the ancient Egyptians did it already .. the origin of the chicken is safe and not Sicily. This is Franco Cazzamali, butchers in Cremona, one that has contributed alla fortuna di chef come Alajmo e che ha segnato una strada per tanti suoi colleghi.. Accursio ha comunque donato un pò di sicilianità alla pietanza con la tuma sicula, formaggio derivante dal latte di pecora intero crudo, appena fermentato con caglio di agnello, salato il giorno dopo e messo in commercio senza stagionatura ( il casaro è Mario Candido di Modica bassa ). A tal proposito un pastore mi ha spiegato come si fa il caglio, almeno secondo la tradizione: si riempe di latte di pecora la parte iniziale dello stomaco dell'agnello ( da latte ) dopo averlo pulito a seguito della sua macellazione. Dopo un pò di tempo il latte si solidifica a causa dell'azione di enzimi presenti nelle pareti dello stomaco dell'agnello che rompono la proteina del (casein), splitting the fat from the liquid will evaporate. While the fat to form the curd that need, dissolved and diluted with water, will be used to fine cheeses naturally rise as the Sicilian tuma
fillets of sea bream to sea water, saffron and potatoes. The technician Accursio cooking the fish does not make him lose vacuum which hold the liquid goodness and nutrients. The potato is not only a supportive role of the thread can remain neutral, allowing Furgentini oil, algae, and saffron all'erbette Sting never overwhelming. Further evidence of muscle (technical) Accursio
Anche la pietanza a base di carne è una dimostrazione di tecnica di Accursio. Una bistecca, infatti, cotta in olio per due ore a 60 gradi di temperatura.. con un patè di melanzane e peperoni a corollario con le tradizionali erbe, salvia, timo e rosmarino a ricreare un ambiente da barbecue.. A Calogero non poteva sfuggire l'occasione per esibire un altra sua scoperta. Un Etna rosso, proveniente da Nerello Mascalese, che cresce sui terreni vulcanici di Randazzo a 750 metri d'altezza dal mare. L'azienda vinicola Calabretta ha una lunga storia e da qualche anno, così come i vari produttori della zona dell'Etna, ha imboccato una strada di qualità. Calogero ha servito il vino ad una temperatura di servizio fresca, a mio avviso troppo fresca, almost cold, which I was not allowed to reap the full aromas of this wine that has certainly spiced
And here's an original pre-dessert, not ice cream, but cheese. Feuille of cheese, figs and walnuts. The Sicilian cheese, as it is a double cheese derived from cow's milk - in our case - of race Modica. Accursio the preferred semi-mature,, so it is not particularly tasty and well contrasted with delicate fig and walnut jam
With sweet samurai Calogero the company offers a Tuscan Aleatico Massa Vecchia. The grapes are harvested during a period two months, one after another, as appassicono on the wires of the plants to cordon. Once again, the sommelier offering surprisingly, reign in the land of Sicily, where world-famous sweet wines like Marsala and Malvasia, an organic wine that follows the original pastry Gazza Ladra, those without excess sugar that often relegate most of the wines Sicilian sweets to the role of closing the meal
The other pre-dessert of the restaurant is a must Sicilian mulberry sorbet. The version of Accursio also provides for the presence of grapes, a slice of snuff stuffed fish sticks on a milk foam ..
And here is a Return to the techniques of Accursio. egg à la coque biscuit with coffee. The white, or albumen is of almond milk, yellow, ie the yolk, and apricot jam. The construction of the dish refers to lunch once, when they reigned the fashion of packaged snacks. The biscuit Slices of bread is reminiscent of a coffee house, to the right of the egg, to simulate salt, chopped almonds and sweetened
The almond did not involve the nauseating excesses of some Sicilian pastries and also had a consistency density almost identical to that of egg mimics. Then add the biscuit was really a pleasure from childhood that I was going to relive
An interesting ice cream and extra chocolate, hazelnut and coffee to complete the picture of the sweets. To tell the truth it a little less convincing than others. The ingredients are blended in fact, losing the original characteristics, but without ever reaching the heights of its predecessors. Perhaps Accursio hear my thoughts, so comes another sweet a nice and challenging cassatina, stuffed with a mousse of ricotta (ricotta filling is different from the Sicilian tradition because it contains less sugar and more milk), the base and a pistachio mousse with a heart of ice and cherries chocolate. The cover is marzipan pistachio and almonds modicane, not to be confused with the traditional sugary icing of a certain Sicilian pastry back again. Never failed to decorate the cover of a candied orange peel. Accursio also studied the Sicilian cakes and confectionery. Now find out who was his teacher ..
.. and here is the pampering that Accursio also want to be a tribute to his Master: Corrado Assenza, pastry chef in Noto, Sicily at the Coffee
Accursio after dinner shows us the young wife, the 26-year-old Oriana April . His inspiration and strength but also valuable collaborator in the kitchen, where he held the role of pastry with authority
After his discharge from Accursio and his band we also enjoyed the hospitality of Palazzo Failla which owes its name to the owner family operates a small number of rooms, furnished in the style of Sicilian palaces of centuries past, with careful management by Mrs. Claudia, champion of cordiality and hospitality and that the Board of approach if you want to spend a stay in tone with the level of cuisine Accursio Capraro.

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