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Pino Cuttaia from Licata. The proposed contemporary Sicilian tradition

A Licata, Sicily large municipality in the province of Agrigento, the restaurant La Madia. In the kitchen Cuttaia Pino, almost forty chef who recently have earned the prestigious Michelin star dining The 'La Madia is able to accommodate about 25 people spread over 8 / 10 tables. Prints on the walls that recall the tradition of our island, cherry tomatoes hanging from the roof, the fresh watermelon, the mingling of sweet and sour, the art of master potters and blacksmiths. The furniture tends to liberty, the device simple and nice, cutlery and white ceramic Sambonet good quality German

Thus begins our knowledge of Pino Cuttaia who started the experience of 'La Madia and his wife eight years ago. And 'she was the main stimulus to leave the Piedmont, where he moved with his family in '82. Together they have also done two children, almost three ..

chopped red shrimp roe mayonnaise with citrus and olive. The path that has already Pino offers us this dish with the issues that will be the main theme of the dinner last July 18. The red shrimp is one of the most precious gifts that the generous Sicily Channel every day makes the numerous fleets of Sicily, southern and western, of which the licatese is one of the most important. The roe mayonnaise - a mullet amberjack precise Pino made by me - is instead the fruit of man, his imagination, his technique. A dualism is always present in foods of Pino. A twin-track one hand reassures customers offers flavors already present in the collective memory, not giving up, however, on the other hand, to surprise, with a trial and never extreme end in itself

tradition are the pistachios in bread .. .. an oil can be soaked up from the countryside between Palma and Licata Lichtenberg located along 50 acres that the company devotes to the cultivation of olives Mandranova .. .. tradition is the salt of the Sicilian salt, millennia of history and crystal-clear and large diamonds .. .. a tradition anche l'Inzolia, un'uva che in Sicilia cresce spontaneamente e che l'impegno degli uomini di questa Isola trasforma in vini conosciuti e bevuti nell'universo dell'enologia. Il sommelier de' La Madia, Vincenzo Corrente, licatese di 34 anni, di cui 19 trascorsi tra scuola alberghiera e sala, ci propone a tutto pasto un sapido inzolia in purezza, l'Halykas della Tenuta La Luna, il cui nome di origini greche tradisce la presenza degli antichi colonizzatori cretesi che riuscirono a "salvare la pelle" dalle successive dominazioni soltanto perché era famoso in tutto il Mediterraneo il loro vino. La raccolta delle uve viene eseguita in tre riprese a distanza di circa 20 giorni l'una dall'altra, al fine di mantenere elevato il contenuto zuccherino. E' forse precisely its high alcohol content, although on this side the wine you drink it, should not recommended for the whole meal, with its aromas, fruity and persistent, make it pleasing to the senses It Maitre, Gaetano Galofaro of 46 years has always been in the room and from the province of Ragusa, to present a smoked cod and seasoned Pigna Pizzaiola, a meal that will reveal the genius of Pino Cuttaia ..

Cod is smoked over wood Pigna licatese hills, just buy a crispness that makes it similar to the flesh, not losing, however, inside the soft texture that is characteristic of fish. The condimento così come la presentazione del piatto non solo s'ispirano alla pizzaiola ma addirittura il sapore la richiama decisamente dalla memoria fanciullesca, amplificando quei momenti di felicità dell'eta spensierata e facendoceli rivivere, seppur per pochi attimi
"Anche a casa mia - riprende Pino - la pizzaiola di carne era una delle pietanza più frequenti. Ricordo come mia madre la curava con dedizione al fine di mascherare la carne che a me proprio non piaceva e che soltanto accompagnata dal contesto di sapori diversi, riusciva a farmela buttar giù.."
Insomma una bella pagina da "libro Cuore" ( anzi di Mastro Don Gesualdo, per rimanere tra le mura di Casa..), con le patate a fettine tipiche della pizzaiola tradizionale, reproduced in a form of mashed potato that became the bed where they found a safe exile the strips of smoked cod, confit tomatoes datterini and small basil leaves
not able to taste the dish to the readers of the blog, I thought let me take pictures with an expression that can represent a special pleasure that I tried to immerse fully in this dish
Pino does not lose the approach a little staid in the evening that kept it but the knowledge he has suffered negative
skewer octopus with chick pea puree and rosemary sauce. Both the sight and palate is a dish that makes you, indeed you dive right in with violent jerks of the market 'Vucciaria of Palermo, the street where you make your way through the boilers and fryers of octopus fritters (chickpea fritters). Moreover, the veracity of the octopus (it takes a perfect dentures ..) and the texture of chickpea flour (which also presented a wafer) will not betray the short cooking time of the Sicilian tradition .. another gesture of affection to his Pine Land, played with technical (the octopus is cooked on the grill) of the absolute level And here's a dish that has made known beyond the boundaries of the Pine Sicilian coast ..
Cannolo bead of eggplant with ricotta cheese, tomato, Ragusa, and basil sauce ..
Bead Eggplant is a vegetable that could be called "new generation" because it is derived from recent experiments aimed at improving the eggplant Ragusa. Its peculiarity is that it manages to maintain the organoleptic characteristics despite his lanky form, giving it an elegance that many chefs try with a strong sense of aesthetics as Pino Cuttaia which has a mousse of eggplant filled with ricotta and fresh , wrapping it with the noodles (which have made happy the well-known manufacturer of De Cecco pasta dish that has included this in his publication), asking her to "walk" a plum tomato and on the "back" a slice of Ragusa and a basil sauce to flavor and color of this poster art further Sicilian gourmet chef licatese
About the menu included a proposition fish fishing boat (named after a type of fishing boat), if a wild sea bass (read "non-breeding"), confirming the excellent relations with local fishermen Pino, who have him as a valuable reference for the sale of fish very fresh and commercial quality. The project provides for setting the menu dish "fish sautéed with aromas of Mediterranean fish with basil oil"
Under the fish with the function of a potato chip mat and a light pesto sauce .. actually a little potato steals flavor to the pesto sauce and sea bass could not be "listening", probably his job was only cosmetic and plate scorched fingers (some salamanders) This picture to show that we only describe the feelings that I try during the tasting, and for this reason, I jot down and then not forget ..

smooth fillet of beef in olive ash. This is strips of beef, barbecue baked and flavored with an aroma of wild thyme licatese campaign. Soft and delicious, as are two potatoes, also cooked on the barbecue. From the aesthetic point of view a very elegant dish, far from equilibrium aesthetic eggplant cannoli perlina o della cornucopia di ricotta che tra poco vi presento. Sembra più adatta alla portata principale di un film pulp al modo di Quentin Tarantino.. insomma caro Pino va bene l'omaggio al ritrovato piacere delle cotture al barbacue ( le cui ceneri una volta si diceva fossero cancerogene ), ma non dimenticare uno stile estetico che finora ti ha contraddistinto..

Pre-dessert: granatina di gelsi con foglietta di menta peperita..

..ho apprezzato!

Cornucopia, cialda di cannolo con crema di ricotta e marmellata d'arance..

E' inutile dire quanto the wafer can love the cannoli with ricotta cream, corresponds to the affection of the Milanese panettone or the baba for the Neapolitans, and no doubt this was done with great knowledge. In particular, the frying of the wafer has avoided the heaviness that sometimes presents Sicilian pastries, as well as fluid flowed to the cream cheese taste without excessive sugar. But the scoop out of tune. As if we had inserted in the score of 4 Seasons of Vivaldi a piano, itself, is perhaps the most complete tool in existence, but nothing would bring, as well as ice cream, balance and magnificence of a work already complete in itself !

A dessert I asked some of Pino information about him and his restaurant. In the kitchen is 9, in room 4. The food do you like best? Pasta with sardines, "I hope never ends ..", his myth? Gualtiero Marchesi, "has opened a way for us all", the other that estimate? Aimo e Nadia, Santin, "artisans of food. Men who carry out their ideas, without mounting, but without renouncing the news." Like him, like Pino Cuttaia: forward slowly in the heavy seas of the restaurant, on a course towards bright future, with the certainty of a technique without uncertainty and the feeling of being privileged custodian of a culinary tradition, what is the Sicilian, the inexhaustible source of 'inspiration.

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Carmelo Chiaramonte. When knowledge becomes transferred to the culture dish

A Catania, at the restaurant of Katane Palace, designed by Carmelo Chiaramonte . A brilliant young chef that Ragusa made his kitchen a moment of encounter and engagement. Recently, I met him at Messina, at a very interesting exhibition entitled Spaday between events which provided a most attractive around tasting everything, between Scylla and Charybdis, Nature gives, even though making them suffer very, fishermen from both sides.

I had already tried something of the cuisine of Caramel at a dinner at the Katane

For example questo carpaccio di tonno affumicato su legno di timo con frutti di stagione sorbetto al limone.. ..poi un Mojito mangia e bevi con fasolare (non si vede perché ho dimenticato di fotografarlo prima di mangiarlo) ed acqua marina.. .. degli spaghetti ghiacciati con polpa di ricci di mare, robiola e fragoline ..

..zuppa di mandorle, vongole e basilico..
.. carbonara di mare con tonno, uovo crudo e marsala..
.. tagliata di tonno con peperonata di fragole..
.. Passeggiata sull'Etna con origano verde, acqua di rose, amarena e sciroppo di melograno..
.. polipetto watermelon with cinnamon ..
.. waffle with ice cream cannoli with ricotta cheese and crunchy pistachio ..
.. biscuits modicani : chocolate chili cupcakes with dried figs and beef
But Messina menu was as follows ..

.. carpaccio of swordfish smoked in oak Nebrodi with the fruits of summer and the scent of Sicilian bergamot in Reggio. Peaches, apricots and cherries were of Peloritani, the mountains that dominate Messina, almost crushing it against the sea. In short, everything in a dish Nature shows us in the Strait

And here is a chilled soup of beans Ucria (mountain village Nebrodi) and dry skin of Muraena Helena. There were leaves of lettuce and radicchio, and also provola Nebrodi. The Murena Strait in ancient times was famous, today the fishermen thrown back into the sea .. yet, at least to Chiaramonte, it's really good
The study of a menu icon corresponds to the territory and traditions of the Straits, could not whatever 'a greedy . But 'to the greedy Chiaramonte, who avoids fry onions and garlic, and add the olives, capers and celery almost cooked, then does not put any part of swordfish, but only those from the fins and the streets around the spine, because the pot comes with the remains of the swordfish that fishermen do not could sell, but instead for their own poor power (as evidenced by the presence of celery) And here are fileddi fin 'i cozzu , scurzetta , I fell, and hit cutigghiuni ' to gghiotta
But in this time of year swordfish have the gonads filled with eggs. Caramel is so that Malfa , uno dei tre comuni di Salina (Isole Eolie ) un tempo vi era l'usanza di cucinare a cotoletta le uova di pescespada . Prima le mette a vapore per un'ora all'interno della propria sacca su cui passa un pochettino di aglio, sale e salvia prima di avvolgerla con carta di protezione. Poi raffreddata con l'abbattitore, così da poterla affettare senza che si sbricioli, e quindi fritta dopo averla passata con farina, uova e mollica

Uno Chef, Carmelo Chiaramonte , assolutamente atipico nel panorama della cucina non solo siciliana. Il suo desiderio di conoscenza spazia ecletticamente in più discipline, divenendo cultura che Carmelo non cela solo per se stesso, ma trasferisce ai propri piatti i quali parlano di lui, della sua voglia di ricerca, del suo amore per una professione che interpreta magistralmente. Merita l'Oscar.

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Andreas Zangerl, an Austrian in Sicily. Grugno House in Taormina.

In pieno centro a Taormina, "perla" siciliana del Mar Mediterraneo, a pochi metri dal quattrocentesco Duomo, un austriaco cerca di coniugare la disciplina asburgica alla fantasia araba L'estro tranquillo di questo austriaco è stato di recente premiato con la prestigiosa stella Michelin Questo austriaco si chiama Andreas Zangerl, è nato in Tirolo dove ha frequentato la scuola alberghiera, quindi ha girato un pò il mondo, dove ha conosciuto tante cucine, per poi trovare a Taormina aromas, scents and colors that are nailed to house Grugno We had dinner outdoors, with sound fresh, Ginori plates, cutlery Sambonet type of baguette, and Ober Glass crystals Spigelau

look to the room indoors .. And now it begins

An amuse bouche interned in a glass bottle with those who remind us that once preserved our mothers were at home. And in fact the ingredients and the construction of the dish immediately call a traditional Sicilian dish: Parmigiana. Revised by Andreas that has reduced the eggplant mousse, are placed on top of ass cherry tomatoes, and a froth of Parmesan cheese. To close a basil leaf and a bead fried eggplant with salt on the surface. Creating a play of textures and rich colors that attract you to the palate as well as the Parmesan, the mothers brought to the table on Sunday, but with a new light, in some sense rational, composed and ordered in his bottle, and not " Spans "and dripping with oil as it is photographed in the collective memory. A composure immediately catapult into the world of Andreas, the Austrian and Mediterranean fantasy order A Michelin star is earned not only the cuisine but also with a quality service. Here is the maitre, Stefano Lo Giudice, Taormina of 39 years in this House since its opening Grugno in 2001
And here is the sommelier, Giuseppe Privitera, Catania, 43, 20 of which are spent studying wine. He will build a path related to the tasting menu Andreas surprise that we take announces spend. On his right Ada

It starts with a prosecco Rive di San Floriano 2006, nice palate The basket of bread provides a classic baguette, cornettini, bread sticks, whole wheat bread with figs, walnuts and pistachios Indeed, the path wine starts now, with a Cataratto, variety very popular in Sicily that also grows spontaneously, now enhanced a little by all the island's most important wineries. Here is one proposed by Alessandro di Camporeale. A bouquet persistent, albeit with hints of fresh fruits that spell out the young
And here's salad of prawns on a bed of the Strait of wild greens with orange and grapefruit slices, julienne strips of cedar oil flavored with smoked bacon. On the palate the crunchiness of the bacon was unable to stem the fleshy prawn, nor the harshness of the natural raw prawn was able to be fully supported by hints of citrus do not know if it's normal star in a restaurant that a customer juice head of prawns held in the hand. Unfortunately this happened while I was photographed and I can not criticize the fact ..
Even my friend Greg looked at me puzzled ..

Unfortunately I also saw Andreas, but the benevolent grin did not make me feel too embarrassed .. Meanwhile it was time for a Etna Bianco 2006, Tenuta Terre Nere. A loader on its own, full of flavor, featuring wines that are born and, therefore, owe their name to one of the most famous volcanoes in the world

And here's a bit of seafood tapas. Looking from the left is a ball grouper stuffed with tuna, salmon eggs and a leaf of mint, and a grouper tartar with balsamic vinegar and boiled must. Sorbet on a spoon of fennel seeds, a close fried of Mediterranean fish with mayonnaise, lemon and capers. The remarkable scoop of grouper, perfect fried. A good plate is securely fitted to the international trend minimal / raw / fish & chips

Andreas knows the territory better than most Sicilians, as Darwin studied the Galapagos Islands, as Andreas has carefully identified the treasures of this island beloved by Nature

Right, potted meat mixed with fried asparagus, and its demiglass, foie gras with pears on a bed of mint leaves, cocoa beans with quails with wild berries and cream strawberries. Tribute to the tradition of good dish Nordic cuisine. For us, a Sicilian dish foreign Cold soup of peach and ginger dumplings with sheep cheese and roe made by Andreas. The liquid part, served cold, it runs smoothly in the direction along the palate uvula, then bursts into the cottage cheese, with its morbitezza to counter the sweetness and flavor of liquid fish. And finally the crown of diamonds: the roe, solid and tasty. Worlds that follow: the sea after the animal and plant after that. A great dish presented with elegance and efficiency

Meanwhile, the sommelier involved with another white. Haermosa Masseria del Feudo di Grotta Rossa. A Chardonnay with a good balance of alcohol. These Notes floral and fruit tend to mature

ravioli stains dried beans with shrimp sauce and grilled radicchio and celery, with Ragusa with 12 months of seasoning. Leggerrissima pasta ravioli of langoustine and excellent cooking that allows you to grasp the freshness And here a great fillet of fish with crispy datterini tomatoes, capers, mozzarella and fresh pea pods (those large, flat green. These bean pods with left blank). Accampagnato a tuna sauce with baby zucchini (the cylindrical tip in the sugar peas) Because of my limited knowledge of fish, when I was given that the thread came from a Marzipan I asked about, so before the sommelier and maitre d 'then they took me to the table both sites superinformati books on the subject. It was like being back at the University! For the record it is a fish soup called , because of the little and large fleshy spiny . But Andreas has cooked on the same skin temperature and overcontrol, turning the frog into a prince ..

The belly, balding, and some other defect that seems to emerge with regard to my person, looking at the photos, they would not be because I will make a quick weight loss diet and a preoccupation riscostituente aimed at thickening the hair, so as to recover the ancient beauty .. The wine sommelier presents us with a last name, binomial, which denounces the double parentage arising from the union between the company and the manufacturer La Valentina Stefano Inama Veneto. This is a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo '99,'s extremely hot and tannic on the palate. Perhaps a note a little higher in the evening concert And here is the seventh and last course before dessert first. Pigeon breast with foie gras and red wine sauce, vegetables with reduced composition of citrus sauce. Another foreign dish, although citrus fruits are made in Sicily .. Pre dessert: creme brulee licorice. Nothing to envy our Must Sicilian ...

Dessert: white chocolate parfait with berries and strawberry sauce with pistachios and sprinkled with cocoa and a pod .. I must remember to suggest to pay homage to Andreas about the desserts, a bit more in this island tradition that your pastry is his greatest pride When this leave us with a maitre spirits. Gregory asks for a rum with at least 20 years of age .. I would disappear .. but perhaps I exaggerate .. Meanwhile, Andreas approaches Gregory with his helmet in his hand .. Quiet is just to say hello, while we applaud the resplendent hospitality.