Saturday, July 21, 2007

Rabbit Run Blueprints

Pino Cuttaia from Licata. The proposed contemporary Sicilian tradition

A Licata, Sicily large municipality in the province of Agrigento, the restaurant La Madia. In the kitchen Cuttaia Pino, almost forty chef who recently have earned the prestigious Michelin star dining The 'La Madia is able to accommodate about 25 people spread over 8 / 10 tables. Prints on the walls that recall the tradition of our island, cherry tomatoes hanging from the roof, the fresh watermelon, the mingling of sweet and sour, the art of master potters and blacksmiths. The furniture tends to liberty, the device simple and nice, cutlery and white ceramic Sambonet good quality German
Thus begins our knowledge of Pino Cuttaia who started the experience of 'La Madia and his wife eight years ago. And 'she was the main stimulus to leave the Piedmont, where he moved with his family in '82. Together they have also done two children, almost three ..
chopped red shrimp roe mayonnaise with citrus and olive. The path that has already Pino offers us this dish with the issues that will be the main theme of the dinner last July 18. The red shrimp is one of the most precious gifts that the generous Sicily Channel every day makes the numerous fleets of Sicily, southern and western, of which the licatese is one of the most important. The roe mayonnaise - a mullet amberjack precise Pino made by me - is instead the fruit of man, his imagination, his technique. A dualism is always present in foods of Pino. A twin-track one hand reassures customers offers flavors already present in the collective memory, not giving up, however, on the other hand, to surprise, with a trial and never extreme end in itself
tradition are the pistachios in bread .. .. an oil can be soaked up from the countryside between Palma and Licata Lichtenberg located along 50 acres that the company devotes to the cultivation of olives Mandranova .. .. tradition is the salt of the Sicilian salt, millennia of history and crystal-clear and large diamonds .. .. a tradition anche l'Inzolia, un'uva che in Sicilia cresce spontaneamente e che l'impegno degli uomini di questa Isola trasforma in vini conosciuti e bevuti nell'universo dell'enologia. Il sommelier de' La Madia, Vincenzo Corrente, licatese di 34 anni, di cui 19 trascorsi tra scuola alberghiera e sala, ci propone a tutto pasto un sapido inzolia in purezza, l'Halykas della Tenuta La Luna, il cui nome di origini greche tradisce la presenza degli antichi colonizzatori cretesi che riuscirono a "salvare la pelle" dalle successive dominazioni soltanto perché era famoso in tutto il Mediterraneo il loro vino. La raccolta delle uve viene eseguita in tre riprese a distanza di circa 20 giorni l'una dall'altra, al fine di mantenere elevato il contenuto zuccherino. E' forse precisely its high alcohol content, although on this side the wine you drink it, should not recommended for the whole meal, with its aromas, fruity and persistent, make it pleasing to the senses It Maitre, Gaetano Galofaro of 46 years has always been in the room and from the province of Ragusa, to present a smoked cod and seasoned Pigna Pizzaiola, a meal that will reveal the genius of Pino Cuttaia ..

Cod is smoked over wood Pigna licatese hills, just buy a crispness that makes it similar to the flesh, not losing, however, inside the soft texture that is characteristic of fish. The condimento così come la presentazione del piatto non solo s'ispirano alla pizzaiola ma addirittura il sapore la richiama decisamente dalla memoria fanciullesca, amplificando quei momenti di felicità dell'eta spensierata e facendoceli rivivere, seppur per pochi attimi
"Anche a casa mia - riprende Pino - la pizzaiola di carne era una delle pietanza più frequenti. Ricordo come mia madre la curava con dedizione al fine di mascherare la carne che a me proprio non piaceva e che soltanto accompagnata dal contesto di sapori diversi, riusciva a farmela buttar giù.."
Insomma una bella pagina da "libro Cuore" ( anzi di Mastro Don Gesualdo, per rimanere tra le mura di Casa..), con le patate a fettine tipiche della pizzaiola tradizionale, reproduced in a form of mashed potato that became the bed where they found a safe exile the strips of smoked cod, confit tomatoes datterini and small basil leaves
not able to taste the dish to the readers of the blog, I thought let me take pictures with an expression that can represent a special pleasure that I tried to immerse fully in this dish
Pino does not lose the approach a little staid in the evening that kept it but the knowledge he has suffered negative
skewer octopus with chick pea puree and rosemary sauce. Both the sight and palate is a dish that makes you, indeed you dive right in with violent jerks of the market 'Vucciaria of Palermo, the street where you make your way through the boilers and fryers of octopus fritters (chickpea fritters). Moreover, the veracity of the octopus (it takes a perfect dentures ..) and the texture of chickpea flour (which also presented a wafer) will not betray the short cooking time of the Sicilian tradition .. another gesture of affection to his Pine Land, played with technical (the octopus is cooked on the grill) of the absolute level And here's a dish that has made known beyond the boundaries of the Pine Sicilian coast ..
Cannolo bead of eggplant with ricotta cheese, tomato, Ragusa, and basil sauce ..
Bead Eggplant is a vegetable that could be called "new generation" because it is derived from recent experiments aimed at improving the eggplant Ragusa. Its peculiarity is that it manages to maintain the organoleptic characteristics despite his lanky form, giving it an elegance that many chefs try with a strong sense of aesthetics as Pino Cuttaia which has a mousse of eggplant filled with ricotta and fresh , wrapping it with the noodles (which have made happy the well-known manufacturer of De Cecco pasta dish that has included this in his publication), asking her to "walk" a plum tomato and on the "back" a slice of Ragusa and a basil sauce to flavor and color of this poster art further Sicilian gourmet chef licatese
About the menu included a proposition fish fishing boat (named after a type of fishing boat), if a wild sea bass (read "non-breeding"), confirming the excellent relations with local fishermen Pino, who have him as a valuable reference for the sale of fish very fresh and commercial quality. The project provides for setting the menu dish "fish sautéed with aromas of Mediterranean fish with basil oil"
Under the fish with the function of a potato chip mat and a light pesto sauce .. actually a little potato steals flavor to the pesto sauce and sea bass could not be "listening", probably his job was only cosmetic and plate scorched fingers (some salamanders) This picture to show that we only describe the feelings that I try during the tasting, and for this reason, I jot down and then not forget ..
smooth fillet of beef in olive ash. This is strips of beef, barbecue baked and flavored with an aroma of wild thyme licatese campaign. Soft and delicious, as are two potatoes, also cooked on the barbecue. From the aesthetic point of view a very elegant dish, far from equilibrium aesthetic eggplant cannoli perlina o della cornucopia di ricotta che tra poco vi presento. Sembra più adatta alla portata principale di un film pulp al modo di Quentin Tarantino.. insomma caro Pino va bene l'omaggio al ritrovato piacere delle cotture al barbacue ( le cui ceneri una volta si diceva fossero cancerogene ), ma non dimenticare uno stile estetico che finora ti ha contraddistinto..
Pre-dessert: granatina di gelsi con foglietta di menta peperita..
..ho apprezzato!
Cornucopia, cialda di cannolo con crema di ricotta e marmellata d'arance..


E' inutile dire quanto the wafer can love the cannoli with ricotta cream, corresponds to the affection of the Milanese panettone or the baba for the Neapolitans, and no doubt this was done with great knowledge. In particular, the frying of the wafer has avoided the heaviness that sometimes presents Sicilian pastries, as well as fluid flowed to the cream cheese taste without excessive sugar. But the scoop out of tune. As if we had inserted in the score of 4 Seasons of Vivaldi a piano, itself, is perhaps the most complete tool in existence, but nothing would bring, as well as ice cream, balance and magnificence of a work already complete in itself !

A dessert I asked some of Pino information about him and his restaurant. In the kitchen is 9, in room 4. The food do you like best? Pasta with sardines, "I hope never ends ..", his myth? Gualtiero Marchesi, "has opened a way for us all", the other that estimate? Aimo e Nadia, Santin, "artisans of food. Men who carry out their ideas, without mounting, but without renouncing the news." Like him, like Pino Cuttaia: forward slowly in the heavy seas of the restaurant, on a course towards bright future, with the certainty of a technique without uncertainty and the feeling of being privileged custodian of a culinary tradition, what is the Sicilian, the inexhaustible source of 'inspiration.

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